Haute Route
Duration 11 Days » Grade Introductory
 The Haute Route Photo: © Colin Stump
The Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route is one of the world's great mountaineering journeys. It traverses the crest of the Western Alps and passes through some of the most stunning mountain scenery in Europe.
The Haute Route is the easiest of our courses in the Alps, and is suitable for fit walkers, as well as those with some previous winter or alpine experience. Training in ice axe and crampon use and safe glacier travel is taught on the first day of the course, as we will be walking on glaciers for much of the seven days that we spend in the mountains.
Starting from the Chamonix Valley, we cross the northern end of the Mont Blanc Massif into Switzerland. Then we go around the Grand Combin to reach the Arolla Region. Here we will climb to the summit of the Pigne d'Arolla, before descending to our hotel base in Arolla for a night.
After a welcome night in the valley, we cross a high mountain ridge and then descend past the North Face of the Matterhorn to Zermatt, perhaps taking in the summit of Tête Blanche or Tête de Valpelline along the way. The exact route taken depends on the prevailing weather conditions and the strength of the team, as there are many variations along the way.
For 2009, we have extended our itinerary so that we are out of step with those who follow a shorter, 7-day itinerary, which inevitably means staying in huts on the same nights of the week. We aim to avoid the crowds by having a full glacier training day prior to beginning the journey, as well as having more flexibility on the route itself. After arriving in Zermatt, we will also climb the Breithorn (4,164m).
- Climb Mont Blanc The Haute Route Mont Blanc Extension... [read more]
Starting point: Chamonix, France
Possible mountain routes
The Jagged Globe Haute Route spends seven days in the mountains, which allows us to take in some straightforward summits. These peaks have been climbed on previous Jagged Globe Haute Route courses:
Pigne d'Arolla (3,796m)
An ascent of the Pigne d'Arolla is a good introductory climb. The route via the ESE flank is on snow all the way and the summit gives wonderful views of our valley base of Arolla and, on a clear day, of the Mediterranean. This route from the Vignettes Hut takes approximately 2 hours. Alternatively, we may make a traverse of the mountain from the Dix Hut via the West Flank (F), descending the ESE flank back down to the valley.
Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3,869m)
Although the name of Mont Blanc de Cheilon indicates that you are about to climb something akin to a "milk-pail", this mountain is, without doubt, the finest rock and ice peak in the Arolla district. The summit forms a pointed central hub with rock and ice ridges radiating like spokes on a wheel. We climb the mountain from via the normal route from the Dix Hut. This is a classic outing up the broad snow slopes of the WNW flank to meet the SW ridge. Narrow at first, the ridge becomes rocky and steepens up towards the summit, which provides memorable views west towards Mont Blanc.
Tête Blanche (3,710m)
The Tête Blanche is a quick and easy peak to get "in the bag". One of a series of summits along the By-Valsorey-Velan frontier ridge which gives excellent views all around, especially of the Matterhorn.
Breithorn (4,164m) - the easiest 4,000m peak in the Alps
The Breithorn offers some excellent climbing at a reasonable standard; ease of access via the Klein Matterhorn lift and a straightforward descent ensures its popularity. The South-South-West Flank is the ordinary route (F), which can be easily climbed as part of a satisfying traverse of the mountain. The route is on snow, with a stunning summit ridge.
Typical Programme
| Day 1: | Saturday.
Course participants meet at the course base at 8 p.m. Briefing on the week's activities in the evening plus gear check. |
| Day 2: | Sunday.
Glacier training day at the Mer de Glace. Essential skills training: use of ice axe, crampons and roping-up for glacier travel. In the afternoon, we will organise our gear for the week and make any last minute purchases. |
| Day 3: | Monday.
We will take the cable car to Le Tour and have a leisurely walk up to the Albert Premier Hut (2,702m). The afternoon is spent doing advanced glacier skills training. |
| Day 4: | Tuesday.
We make an early start to cross the Col du Tour (3,282m) into Switzerland. From here, we descend and walk across the relatively flat Trient Glacier to reach the Cabane du Trient (3,170m) on the north side of the glacier. This is a full day on glaciated terrain. |
| Day 5: | Wednesday.
From the hut, we descend to Champex, where a taxi will be waiting to take us to the dam at Mauvoisin. In the afternoon we walk up to the Cabane de Chanrion (2,462m). |
| Day 6: | Thursday.
There are a couple of route options today for our journey. Typically, we make an alpine start and traverse round onto the Glacier d'Otemma, which leads us past the Petit Mont Collon to the Cabane du Vignettes (3,160m). Alternatively, we may take the Glacier du Gietro and cross the Col de Cheilon to the Cabane du Dix (2,928m). |
| Day 7: | Friday.
From the Vignettes Hut, we will make the 2 hour ascent of the Pigne d'Arolla (3,796m), before descending into Arolla for a shower and overnight at our hotel, the Mont Collon. Alternatively, from the Dix Hut, we might climb Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3,869m). |
| Day 8: | Saturday.
After breakfast at the hotel, we ascend from Arolla to the Cabane du Bertol (3,311m), one of the most spectacularly situated huts in the Alps. There are superb views, in particular of Dent Blanche, with its inspiring South Ridge (a classic route graded 'AD'). |
| Day 9: | Sunday.
We make an early start to cross the Glacier du Mont Mine, possibly taking in the Tête Blanche (3,724m), before crossing the Col d'Herens (3,462m). From here there are superb views of the North Faces of the Matterhorn and Dent D'Herens, before descending the Stockji Glacier to reach the Schonbielhutte (2,694m) for lunch. In the afternoon, we descend to our hotel in Zermatt. |
| Day 10: | Monday.
We take an early télépherique to the Klein Matterhorn Station and climb the Breithorn (4,164m). Overnight hotel. |
| Day 11: | Tuesday.
Breakfast and disperse (luggage from Chamonix will have been transferred around to Zermatt). Those joining the Mont Blanc Extension will transfer early this morning back to Chamonix. |
Find out more about our Course bases, Course Inclusions and Exclusions, Course Directors and Guiding Ratios... [read more]
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Dates
| Joining in | Chamonix
£1,195 |
| Insurance | Course Only
£59 |
| Optional Single Room £15 |
Expeditions
If you have the skills & fitness required, then Jagged Globe offers a wide range of exciting expeditions [read more]
Other Courses at this Grade
These courses have a similar grade and might also suit you. They are all considered to be 'introductory courses'.
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